How to properly jack up a car for DIY repairs?

Why Proper Jacking Matters

Jacking up a car seems straightforward, but doing it wrong can damage your vehicle or cause serious injury. Using the correct equipment and following the right process ensures you can work under the car with confidence. Always consult your owner’s manual for specific jacking points and weight limits, but these general guidelines will apply to most passenger vehicles.

Choosing the Right Equipment

Floor jack vs. scissor jack: A floor jack is more stable and easier to use for most DIY work. The scissor jack that came with your car is intended only for emergency tire changes, not for extended repairs.
Jack stands (mandatory): Never rely on a jack alone to support the vehicle. Use a pair of matched jack stands rated for the weight of your car. Look for a load rating that exceeds your vehicle’s weight.
Wheel chocks: Place chocks behind the wheels that remain on the ground. This prevents the car from rolling while you lift the other end.

Finding the Correct Lift Points

Modern cars have designated jacking points, often indicated by small notches or reinforced metal sections along the frame rails. Using these prevents damage to the vehicle’s underbody panels, suspension components, or fuel lines.

Unibody vehicles: Look for pinch welds along the side of the car. The jack saddle should cradle this reinforced seam.
Body-on-frame trucks/SUVs: Use the frame rails themselves, not the body or suspension parts.
Avoid: Jacking on the oil pan, transmission pan, differential, or control arms. These are not designed to support the vehicle’s weight.

Step-by-Step Jacking Process

Park on a hard, level surface. Soft ground increases the risk of the jack tipping or sinking.
Engage the parking brake and shift the transmission into Park (or first gear for manual transmissions).
Place wheel chocks on the opposite end of the car from where you will lift.
Position the floor jack under the correct lift point. Ensure the jack’s saddle is centered and stable.
Pump the jack handle slowly until the car begins to lift. Watch to confirm the lift point is engaged properly.
Raise the car high enough to slide a jack stand underneath. The stand should be placed at a designated lift point or a sturdy frame member.
Lower the jack until the vehicle rests securely on the stand. Give the car a gentle push at the bumper to test stability before crawling underneath.

Safety Reminders

Never go under a car supported only by a jack. Use jack stands every time.
Always remove the jack before working. A slow leak or accidental bump can cause the jack to slip.
Recheck jack stand placement after lowering the car. Ensure they are on solid, flat ground and not catching on a seam or rusted edge.
For transmission or exhaust work, you may need to jack from the center crossmember or subframe. Use a block of wood to protect the component if needed.

When to Skip the DIY Approach

If you are dealing with heavy components (e.g., dropping a transmission), working on a vehicle with known rust issues around the frame or jack points, or lack a solid, level surface, it is safer to use a professional shop. Likewise, if you are unsure about jack point locations for your specific model, a quick check of the owner’s manual or a brief consultation with a mechanic can prevent costly mistakes.